How to Identify Cold Process Soap from the Ingredient Label

Soap is one of the oldest skincare essentials, but not all soaps are made the same way. Many commercial "soaps" are actually synthetic detergents, while traditional cold process soap is made using a simple yet effective chemical reaction called saponification.

The Science of Soap

Soap is created when oils or fats mix with sodium hydroxide (lye) and water. This process—saponification—transforms the oils into soap and natural glycerin. While lye is necessary to make soap, it completely reacts with the oils, meaning no lye remains in the final product. Instead, you get a gentle, skin-loving cleanser that retains its natural moisturizing glycerin.

But how can you tell if a soap is truly cold process just by looking at the label? Here’s what to check:

1. Look for Saponified Oils (INCI Format)

Cold process soaps list their oils in saponified form, meaning the oils have reacted with lye. Instead of just listing "olive oil" or "coconut oil," a cold process soap label will show:

• Sodium Olivate (saponified olive oil)

• Sodium Cocoate (saponified coconut oil)

• Sodium Shea Butterate (saponified shea butter)

If the oils appear this way, it means the soap was made using traditional saponification.

2. Presence of Glycerin

Cold process soap naturally produces glycerin during saponification. A cold process soap label might include:

• Sodium Olivate, Sodium Cocoate, Aqua (Water), Glycerin

3. No Unnecessary Ingredients

Cold process soap is made from oils, water, and lye—nothing else is needed to create real soap. If a label contains synthetic surfactants like:

• Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (SLS)

• Sodium Laureth Sulfate (SLES)

It’s not a true cold process soap but likely a detergent-based product.

4. Check for Transparency

Handmade soap makers are usually upfront about their process. If the label says cold process soap, you’re more likely to have an authentic, handcrafted soap.